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A cornerstone of Beck’s philosophy is the axiom: “dinner does not end the same evening.” “It’s a fundamental principle. Chefs often don’t follow nutritionists and think only about flavor,” the chef explains as we sip Dom Pérignon 2009 before dinner. Health and artistry are pillars of the dishes served at La Pergola. “No one sits at my table to go on a diet. But I have to consider the guest’s well-being rather than feeding the chef’s ego,” adds the chef, harassed by a cellphone that keeps ringing.
Throughout the long parade of courses, there is a constant search for balance among flavors, lightness, and digestibility. Perhaps the full tasting menu goes a touch beyond this rule, but after all, the choice is yours. You can always opt for the six-course menu (or à la carte). Heinz says: “There was a time when everyone thought you couldn’t create high-level healthy cuisine, because back then it was believed that this kind of cooking had to be very rich and heavy.” Indeed, elsewhere a ten-course dinner with a powerful wine pairing could clog up your night. With our chef from Friedrichshafen, of course, you won’t leave the table light as a feather—but at least it won’t feel like you’ve eaten so many courses. “My menu is designed to let you leave here with the right sense of fullness, without giving up flavor, playfulness, and aesthetics.”
A grand finale of desserts and petit fours follows, featuring the delicate *Variation of coconut, banana, and lime* and the surprising *Iced raspberry sphere on tea cream with crystallized raspberries*. The coffee selection is unmissable, with the option of special extractions such as V60 or Chemex, using rare and prized coffees like the excellent Indonesian Kopi Luwak.
There is also a water list—the only element not fully appreciated—at a time when bottled water, especially plastic, is increasingly frowned upon. Filtered Roman water treated with reverse osmosis, perhaps lightly flavored, would have sufficed. Aside from this small note, Beck remains one of those experiences to put on your gourmet bucket list. There’s no need to waste time with those unpleasant folks at Noma. Rome is your next destination.
